![]() “Only fifteen dollars for mold with bedbugs.” “Do you want some bugs with your dessert? I’d be glad to help you out,” one baker said to passersby cheerfully. Last autumn, on the third day of a strike over unsanitary conditions in the Chelsea café, workers on the picket line seemed to take particular glee in puncturing the Roastery’s carefully controlled image of luxury. The presiding deity is an enormous copper statue of the Starbucks mermaid bursting from a wall, unless we’re meant to worship the smaller, shinier, bug-eyed mermaid statue for sale in the shop for $4,500. ![]() The space, which contains a cocktail bar, a gift shop, and a bakery in addition to a café, is done up in walnut and leather, with tastefully displayed industrial machinery. ![]() At the Starbucks Reserve Roastery in the Chelsea neighborhood of Manhattan, the giant wooden front doors swing open to reveal the company’s sprawling, multilevel temple to itself. ![]()
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